Well-grown plants are essential for profitable yields. The ideal plant for transplanting is one which has made stocky, sturdy growth. It must not be spindly, leggy, too succulent, or stunted from holding too long. Plants for transplanting should be free from diseases and have a compact root system within a good ball of soil.
Some advantages gained from transplanting are as follows:
1. Earlier harvest and longer period of production.
2. The possibility of growing two crops on the same piece of ground.
3. Growing of warm-season crops in regions of short growing seasons.
4. Savings with seeds.
5. Better control of conditions for producing young plants.
Since space is usually at a premium for starting plants under glass, careful selection of species should be made for transplanting. High value crops such as tomato, eggplant, pepper, cabbage, and cauliflower should be given consideration. Low value ones such as beets might not be profitable to handle. Also, consideration should be given to whether or not enough plants can be produced indoors for a dense planting outdoors. If not, then a direct seeding should be used.
Transplanting
Even if sown thinly, seedlings in rows in flats require transplanting to provide more root room and shoot room if they are to grow into sturdy plants.
Transplanting usually checks temporarily the growth of plants because of the breaking of roots and root hairs. Plants should be transplanted while young, for damage in transplanting may severely reduce yields if the growth is large enough before moving. Seedlings which are just beginning to show their first true leaves transplant with little set-back. The set-back is thought to be due to reduced water uptake by the transplanted seedlings. For a time after transplanting, the seedlings operate on a reduced water supply. Care should be taken to shade the plants after transplanting or to cover them to prevent excessive transpiration. If too large a fraction of the roots is lost, discard the plant and use another one. Usually seedlings are available in excess of their need, and there is no need to use poor plants.
Response of Vegetables to Transplanting
|
Transplant easily |
Require care in transplanting |
Difficult to transplant |
|
Beet |
Carrot |
Xoen |
|
Cabbage |
Celery |
Cucumber |
|
Cauliflower |
Eggplant |
Melons |
|
Lettuce |
Onion |
Pea |
|
Tomato |
Pepper |
Beans, garden (snap) |
Soil for Transplanting
Transplanting should be made into good soil. A satisfactory potting mixture is (John Innes Potting Mix):
By volume:
7 part soil
3 parts peat
2 parts sand
The potting mixture can be fortified by adding to each bushel of soil 2 ounces of lime, 2 ounces of powdered rock phosphate, superphosphate or bonemeal, 1 ounce KC1 or a cup of wood ashes, and 4 ounces cow manure or more if needed. Fertilization of established transplants in pots can best be accomplished through the use of soluble salts, but extreme care should be taken in their use.
Transplanting into Flats
The potting soil is placed in the flat in the same manner as for seeding except that the soil is firmed more. The surface should be smooth and 1/2" below the edge of the flats. The spacing of the seedling varies with their type, the room available for spreading the flats, and whether or not another transplanting is to be made. (Each time a transplanting is made growth is checked).
If seeded thinly, seedlings may be removed from the flats leaving them at the proper spacing without transplanting.
Flats do not require much drainage material at the bottom. Cracks in flats should be covered with paper, but no coarse material is needed at the bottom. Coarse material from screening the potting mix can be put at the bottom of the flats rather than discarding it.
Transplanting to Containers
Containers enable one to move good-sized plants or ones difficult to transplant and to provide less shock in setting in the field. More space is required for handling, and more frequent watering is required. Plants in pots will dry-out much faster than ones transplanted into flats.
A number of containers can be used: flower pots, peat pots, paper pots, tin cans, baskets, etc. Three or four inch square flower pots are good for most transplants. Pots which decompose may lead to nitrogen deficiency. (Why is this?).
Hardening
Plants should be hardened or toughened prior to being set in the open. Hardening is accomplished by slowing down the growth to enable them to withstand more adverse conditions. This may be accomplished by withholding water, withholding fertilizer, or lowering the temperature. Hardening usually reduces succulence so that there is less injury from freezing, chilling, and winds. One to two weeks is usually needed to harden plants. Hardened plants can be recognized by color changes in the plants (reddening, paler green, yellow-green), toughening of tissues, increased waxiness on the leaves, and cessation of growth. Some plants such as pepper and tomato should be hardened only slightly as excess hardening will reduce yields of many warm season crops.
Exercise:
1. Note and account for differences in germination among the species and the seeding media, from the laboratory "starting new plants" from seeds. lab8.html
2a. Decide on which vegetables or herbs to transplant. Prick out seedlings with a knife or wooden label. Each person will transplant one or more flats of vegetables or herb, depending on the interests of the individual.
The first small root, the primary root, should be unbroken. Some breaking will occur on lateral roots and root hairs even with very careful handling of the plants. If root breakage appear to be excessive, discard the seedling.
Use only the best plants.
Seedlings should be transplanted into 3" peat pots or other containers filled with the potting mix.
(Smaller seedlings may be transplanted into flats. Some space is saved in this way, but another transplanting may be needed for the small seedlings).
Dry soil should be moistened before using. It is generally best to wet the soil the night before it is to be used to allow for uniform wetting of the mix.
b. Use a dibble (or dibber) to punch holes for placement of plants.
c. Firm soil around the plants. Leave no air spaces. Use care so as to not damage the tender stems. Press downward on each side of plant for best firming with least injury. Label where necessary for identification. Include date, vegetable, variety, and your name.
d. After transplanting, water plants well.
e. Lay newspapers over flats or set them under bench, unless the weather is cloudy for a few days.
3. If the plants remain potted for a long period of time, especially after the growth becomes vigorous, they may exhaust the available nutrient supply in the potting compost. When this happens some soluble plant food must be given unless the plants are repotted or set outdoors. Several commercial preparations are available, ranging from liquified seaweed and fish emulsion to concentrated soluble salts. Any of these preparations are satisfactory if used accordingly to the directions on their containers.
It is possible to prepare a home mixture made from materials
purchased from the grocery or drug store:
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Pantry Plant Food
1 teaspoon baking powder (phosphate)
1 teaspoon Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
1 teaspoon saltpeter (potassium nitrate)
½ teaspoon clear household ammonia
Add to 1 gallon of water and shake well.
Use weekly on transplanted vegetables or flowers. On house plants use
once every 4 to 6 weeks.
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Produced and maintained by Allen Barker
University of
Massachusetts, Amherst.