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In the spring, a considerable time advantage can be gained by starting plants indoors. In this way seedlings can be started in a greenhouse, on a window sill, or in a cold frame, and fairly good-sized plants will be available to set out when the weather permits.
Time of Seeding
The time of sowing in the spring depends upon the crop. Six to 8 weeks of growth under glass are about right for most vegetables and flowers. Sometimes if the time exceeds this, the plants will become too large and be unmanageable, taking up too much space or becoming over-crowded and starved for nutrients and light. Time at which plants can be set out varies greatly with climate and weather. Some plants can be set out in mid-April if they are cold-hardy. Others may not be set out until the frost free date is past. In any case a target date should be selected for starting the seedlings indoors. A growth period of 3 to 4 weeks is sufficient for beets and the cucurbits, while onions and eggplant should have 10 to 12 weeks at least before setting out. Usually one does not need to be too concerned if he is somewhat late in starting his plants indoors, say only 6 weeks before outside planting rather than a preferred 8 weeks for a particular plant. Later in the spring, growing conditions improve even under glass so that more growth is made in a shorter length of time.
Although transplanting usually provides a set back or shock to the seedlings, often a better quality plant results form starting indoors because of the more favorable environment.
Use of Flats
When starting plants indoors, the seeds are usually sown in flats. These are shallow boxes, 2" or 3" deep, and can be of various outside dimensions. Flats 12" to 16" or 16" x 24" are convenient sizes. The bottom of the flat should not be solid but should be of wire, slatted , or with holes so that water will drain out.
Soil Preparation
It is desirable, especially if untreated seeds are used, to sterilize the soil. It is not mandatory that soil be sterilized, however. Sterilization can best be accomplished by passing live steam through the soil, but can also be done by holding a bag of soil in boiling water, placing a metal flat of wet soil in the oven (smells may prohibit this in the kitchen), or using formaldehyde (4 pints of 40% Formalin in 50 gallons of water and applied at the rate of 1 gallon per cubic foot of soil). Steam sterilization also kills weeds, insects, as well as pathogenic organisms.
If one wishes to start seeds with compost or well-rotted manure mixed into the soil, it is necessary to plan a year ahead to allow for composting and to bring inside the composted material. The ground is usually frozen when one wants to start seeds for early crops. Commercially bagged peat moss is good for use as compost. However, in any case, soil should be put indoors, and also sand if it is to be used in the seeding mixture.
A good soil for seed sowing must be friable and must not crust over the seeds. It must hold moisture, hence, contain sufficient well-decomposed organic matter. Alternative periods of wetting and drying tend to check seed germination. The seeding soil need not be rich for seedlings should remain only a week or two in the flat before transplanting to a wider spacing, and rapid development in rich soil may be a problem if labor is short. Too rich soil may encourage a disproportionate amount of shoot growth relative to the root size, hence, more transplanting shock later.
Sand may be used in the seeding soil to loosen it and to aid in aeration. The proportions of soil, compost, and sand depend upon the kind of soil and the method of composting. A sandy loam is ideal for the soil component of the mixture. Generally 2 to 4 parts of soil (by volume) to one part of compost and one part of sand makes a good seeding soil. After mixing the material should be screened through a 1/2-inch mesh screen to remove coarse lumps. Then the soil should be wetted until it can be molded in the hand yet be crumbly to touch. Although the soil can be used immediately it is best to allow it to stand overnight to allow more even distribution of the water around the soil particles.
A number of commercial mixes are available for use. One of these is a peat-vermiculite mix (peat-lite). It can be formulated as follows:
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SMALL VOLUMES
|
Ingredient |
To make 2 bushels |
|
Shredded Canadian sphagnum peat moss |
1 bushel |
|
Vermiculite #4 (Fine) |
1 bushel |
|
Limestone |
10 Tablespoons |
|
Rock phosphate or bonemeal |
2 Tablespoons |
|
Bloodmeal |
12 Tablespoons |
LARGE VOLUMES
|
Ingredient |
To make 1 cubic yard |
|
Shredded Canadian sphagnum peat moss |
13 bushels |
|
Vermiculite #4 (fine) |
13 bushels |
|
Limestone |
2,700 grams (5.9 lb) |
|
Rock phosphate or bonemeal |
635 grams (1.4 lb) |
|
Bloodmeal |
1,900 grams (4.2 lb) |
Such mixes are quite satisfactory and are convenient to use. They are particularly valuable if time or weather does not permit one to prepare a soil mixture for seeding. They are relative disease-free materials. Iron and calcium deficiencies, however, may occur with some plants because of the high organic matter content of and relatively low iron and calciums contents of these media.
Filling the Flat
Sift the seeding mixture to remove gravel, large soil aggregates, and lumps of peat. A thin layer of the coarse particles of soil and compost can be placed on the bottom of the flat but is not required to be used. Fill the flat to within 1/2" of the top; then firm the soil with a block of wood, especially at the sides, ends, and corners. This helps to prevent excessive drying-out and caving-in. Fine soil sifted through 1/4" mesh screen should be used to fill the flat within 1/4" of the top.
Seeding
Seeding in rows in the flat, rather than broadcasting, is best. Rows provide greater ease in removing seedlings at transplanting. Air movement around the plants is facilitated, and damping-off fungi may be retarded. Watering can be done between the rows without wetting the plants. Germination may be better in rows as cracking the soil over the row may allow weaker seedlings to emerge. Seeding in rows is usually done by using a lath to make a furrow, the depth of the furrow depends upon the size of the seeds. A general rule for covering seed is to cover it to a depth four times its diameter, but very fine seed may not need covering at all. A flat-bottom furrow is better than a V-shaped one as the seeds are not so crowded. Rows of seeds should be about 1.5 to 2" apart.
Seeds are usually covered by turning a little soil over the seeds in the furrows, using a wooden label. Fine sand, vermiculite, or peat-lite may be used to cover the seeds. These materials tend to keep the soil moist around the seed and may increase germination. They also eliminate the possibility of the soil crusting over the seed and often compensate somewhat for planting too deep.
After seeding and covering, the surface of the soil should be leveled and firmed with a block of wood. Firming brings the seed into close contact with the soil. The flats of soil should be soaked with a fine spray of water. Flats then may be stacked for several days. Stacking reduces drying out. If flats are not stacked it is often desirable to cover them with glass or newspaper. Burlap is a good cover especially for very small seed. Seedlings, however, should not be allowed to push through the burlap, for their removal for transplanting will greatly be hindered.
Labelling
The kind of vegetable, variety, source of seed, and date of planting should be marked on a wooden label with a pencil. Place the label at the left-hand side of a series of rows of the same vegetable.
Storage
Flats may be stacked for a few days until germination begins; then, they should be spread out. Place flats in a level position so that water will not run to one side. A day temperature of 55 to 60oF is sufficient for the warm-season ones. Night temperatures can be 10o to 15oF lower (40 to 50oF).
Longevity of Seed
If seeds are stored under low temperature (50oF) and low humidity, they may retain their viability for a considerable time.
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|
----------------Approximate length of time that seeds may be expected to retain their ability to germinate-------------------- |
|
Vegetable |
Years |
Vegetable |
Years |
|
Asparagus |
3 |
Onion |
1 |
|
Garden bean |
3 |
Parsley |
2 |
|
Brussels sprouts |
4 |
Parsnip |
1 |
|
Cabbage |
4 |
Pea |
3 |
|
Carrot |
3 |
Pepper |
3 |
|
Cauliflower |
4 |
Pumpkin |
4 |
|
Celery |
5 |
Radish |
4 |
|
Cucumber |
5 |
Rutabaga |
4 |
|
Eggplant |
5 |
Spinach |
4 |
|
Endive |
5 |
Squash |
4 |
|
Kale |
4 |
Sweet corn |
1 |
|
Lettuce |
5 |
Tomato |
3 |
|
Muskmelon |
5 |
Turnip |
4 |
|
Okra |
2 |
Watermelon |
5 |
Exercise:
1. You are provided with a sandy loam soil, peat moss, and sand.
a. Mix the sterilized soil, peat, and sand as follows:
Parts by volume:
2 parts soil
1 part peat
1 part sand
b. Mix enough soil to fill 3 flats.
c. Fill three flats to within 1/2" of the top with the soil mixture. Firm the soil.
2. Peat-vermiculite mixes:
a. Fill one flat level with peat-vermiculite and firm the material (fine mix).
b. Fill another flat with a mix of peat-vermiculite-perlite and firm the material (coarse mix).
3. Seed the flats. Seeds of different ages for several crops will be provided. Label rows.
4. Cover.
a. One soil-filled flat with sifted soil mixture
b. One soil-filled flat with sand.
c. One soil-filled flat with peat-vermiculite.
d. Peat-vermiculite-filled flat with peat-vermiculite.
e. Peat-vermiculite-perlite-filled flat with peat-vermiculite- perlite.
f. Optional __________________________________________________.
5. Wet flats thoroughly and stack them on a bench in the greenhouse.
6. Seed one additional flat with selected vegetables. Use peat-vermiculite-perlite for this seeding.
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Description | Syllabus
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Produced and maintained by Allen Barker
University of
Massachusetts, Amherst.